Spey River Descent

This extremely detailed information is provided by kind permission of the voluntary river advisor for the Spey, David M Craig. Please print this page out should you require this information.

RIVER SPEY
BADENOCH & STRATHSPEY ~ MORAY FIRTH

GRADE: II (-III)
USES: Popular trout and salmon fishing each day during the season (Feb ~ Sept). (No salmon fishing on Sunday.)
O.S. Maps: Sheets 35; 36 & 28. Also Harvey's "Speyside Way" (Waterproof) Map
ACCESS POINTS:

(Please park, launch and land with care and consideration at all locations.)

Laggan Bridge - Either bank by bridge
Newtonmore - right bank, below road bridge. (Left bank only if resident on Speybridge Campsite).
Kingussie - right bank, below road bridge at Ruthven. (Use gate on upstream side of the road.)
Loch Insh - water-sports centre site at NE corner of the Loch.
Kincraig - right bank below bridge. (Park in large lay-by opposite church. Access 100m downstream, over rough "track" running parallel with the road.)
Aviemore - left bank below road bridge, just above or below the footbridge.
Boat of Garten - left bank by road bridge.
Broomhill Bridge - left bank by road bridge.
Grantown on Spey - left bank ~ approx. 450 metres above bridge (by parking areas).
Cromdale - right bank below road bridge, by the church.
Dellefure Burn - (GR.085316) - left bank. (Limited parking space.)
Advie Bridge - (GR.120354) - Park on verge, river-left, opposite five bar gate (approved by Local Authority Area Manager). Current fencing arrangements restrict access somewhat on left bank. If tall gate is locked, access river-right, over low fence, downstream of bridge.
Ballindalloch (1) - (GR.158369) - left bank where road comes within 15 metres of the river. (March Pool) (This is one of the most frequently used access points on the Spey and can be a particularly busy area with fishermen and paddlers looking to park. Please park in the lay-bys, furthest "downstream". If very busy, either wait until the pool is clear of other paddlers before launching or consider using an alternative access point)
Ballindalloch (2) - (GR.168368) - left bank below railway bridge. (Disused railway line - part of the
Speyside Way L. D. Footpath.) Park by the roadside at the old Ballindalloch Station
Ballindalloch (3) - left bank just upstream of Blacksboat Bridge. (This point is available only to paddlers who propose to camp overnight at Blacksboat Railway Station and have, in advance contacted Ballindalloch Estate Office Tel. 01807 500205/fax. 01807 500210.)
Knockando - (GR.195415) - left bank below Tamdhu distillery. (Ample vehicle parking by Tamdhu distillery)
Carron - left bank by road bridge.
Aberlour - right bank above Victoria foot bridge.
Craigellachie - right bank between the old Telford bridge and the new road bridge. Car park adjacent.
Craigellachie (2) - If using the Boat o'Fiddich Park campsite - right bank just above the confluent of the Fiddich Water some 500 metres below the road bridge.
Boat o' Brig - left bank, above or below bridge
Fochabers - right bank below road bridge.
River mouth - right bank by buildings and vehicle parking (Tugnet).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION:
A major river that can usually be relied upon to give reasonable water levels at all seasons. Probably one of the most beautiful rivers in Britain, flowing past the Cairngorms, through Badenoch and Strathspey and into the Moray Firth at Spey Bay. There is nothing highly technical on the river but on sections downstream of Grantown-on-Spey there is a good number of entertaining Grade II rapids.
The river is navigable for most of its length ~ almost from the source at Loch Spey (where the Spey shares a water shed with the turbulent River Roy). A major hazard occurring just above Laggan Bridge is the Spey Dam, which like the Roy steals the Spey's waters and takes them westward (this time to help power an aluminium smelter). However, much water and a lot of portage are normally required to make these higher reaches navigable. Although Laggan Bridge is a fairly good access point, Newtonmore is normally recognised as the highest reasonable starting place. Roads run close to the river throughout its length.

ACCESS
Access and egress can be difficult, particularly in areas not mentioned in the above list of locations. Paddlers are asked not to land at any other places except in the event of, or to avoid, an emergency situation. In the main, wild-camping (i.e. on unauthorised sites) is not recommended. Do not light fires. There is a public right of navigation on the River Spey but obviously it is imperative that there is mutual respect and co-operation between all water users. In recent years substantial bridges have been built through constructive communication between the paddle-sports and angling bodies. Workable local agreements have been formulated to reduce, somewhat, the pressure on the most-paddled waters. Those planning to navigate the river are asked to adhere to the set days (detailed below) whenever possible. In addition to the existing agreements, all reasonable effort should be made to minimise disturbance to anglers and thus prevent upset. Those using the Spey regularly are grateful for the co-operation of the riparian owners and ghillies who give of their time to liase with us.

THE RIVER
Canoeists can start a scenic, leisurely paddle from opposite the campsite at Spey Bridge just above Newtonmore. The stretch to Kingussie can be shallow but offers a variety of small, fun rapids ~ good for a first time experience on moving water. Apart from a couple of minor rapids below the Ruthven Bridge at Kingussie, the river meanders slowly through the Insh Marshes, an important bird sanctuary, and into Loch Insh ~ a major pool in the River Spey. Fallen trees and overhanging branches are the main hazards on these upper sections. This is particularly the case where the river narrows and sets in against the right bank at a location just upstream of Aviemore, above Rothiemurchus West Lodge (GR 884087).
Below Aviemore there are some short, easy rapids but once past Boat of Garten the river moves slowly through very flat land. This slow moving stretch continues to below Broomhall Bridge. (Just above Broomhall, at Boat of Balliefurth ~ GR. 013245 ~ is an ideal easily accessed campsite).
On the approach to Grantown-on-Spey, the river becomes rocky and once through the road bridge the water starts to move more decidedly seaward. From Grantown to Ballindalloch the river offers a variety of easy Grade II rapids. We have now moved into the prime fishing beats of the Spey.
The Ballindalloch to Knockando section includes the best of the white water on the Spey. It is fairly heavily used by paddlers. Please alleviate parking problems at the Ballindalloch, roadside access point (March Pool) by moving vehicles on down to Knockando, where there is ample parking space. Alternatively, one can use the quieter launching spot, a little further downstream by the bridge, on the right bank close by the bunkhouse situated in the old Ballindalloch Railway Station. The shuttle on this section is very easily done by bicycle using the Speyside Way, making for a shorter journey, on the return trip back up to either of the Ballindalloch start points. This can ease parking congestion at Ballindalloch and is environmentally friendly into the bargain.
Downstream of the bridge at Ballindalloch the River Avon (pronounced Aann) enters the Spey from the right. Here, a more interesting Grade II rapid on a double bend introduces the heavier section of the river. Next is Blacksboat Rapid (GR. 181380), a location where the river bed drops fairly sharply and, particularly in low water conditions, the Spey's waters are funnelled into a straight, fast flowing, turbulent water chute providing a real, natural roller-coaster ride. Running parallel with the river at this point, and on downstream to Spey Bay, is the Speyside Way. This is a scenic long-distance footpath stretching from Aviemore, following part of the route of the dismantled Strathspey railway line and from Tugnet along the coast, almost to Buckie. Some 800 metres below Blacksboat Rapid is the disused Blacksboat Station, which now serves as a very basic camping area at the side of the Way. No facilities are available except for a cold-water tap, situated to the rear of the building. Ballindalloch Estate have marked , with white posts, a lunch-stop site some 500 metres downstream of Blacksboat Bridge.
One is now in an area where small places are big in world-wide terms of malt-whisky names! In a little over two kilometres below Blacksboat Bridge the river bends and one can see the chimneys of the Tamdhu Distillery, signalling the approach to Knockando ~ probably the best known of all Spey rapids (and a fine malt!). At Knockando the river provides interest in most conditions, although it can become a little "washed-out" when the river is high. This two-part rapid has been designated, through local agreement (see below) as a white water training area. The access and egress point is immediately below the rapid on the left bank with a steep path leading up to the old disused railway platform. For ease of loading and unloading and carrying boats it is possible to park on the old railway line by the top of the access path. However, as the railway line is now part of the Speyside Way the track should not be obstructed. Also, one should be discreet and move away from the houses and public areas when changing clothing. Relationships between paddlers and fishing people is in the main very good on the River Spey. Any recent complaints, levelled at paddlers, have mainly centred round issues related to folks undressing without consideration of other people in the vicinity and also inappropriate, thoughtless toileting. This is a classic example of a minority spoiling things for the majority. It is crucial, for goodwill to continue, that everyone using the River considers fellow users and also, the environment.
The stretch of river from Knockando to Aberlour is one of the most picturesque on the Spey and there are at least two interesting Grade II rapids. In the final twenty miles to the sea, although moving through very flat land, there is a number of entertaining wee rapids and very few slow pools. In approaching the lower, tidal section it should be noted that, in certain conditions, involving on-shore winds and tides working against the flow of the Spey, severe turbulence can occur, thus making paddling quite difficult. This said, on a fine day it is a pleasant approach to the rollers at Spey Bay.

(In addition to the O.S. maps listed at the start of this guide, Harvey's Maps have produced an excellent waterproof map (ISBN 1-85137-337-3) which covers the length of the Speyside Way. This publication would be a valuable asset for anyone navigating the Spey, downstream of Aviemore.)
Local Agreement ~ Delefure Burn to Aberlour

Some years ago, following negotiations with representatives of three Speyside estates, several " local main user" establishments agreed to avoid canoeing the stretches from below the Dellefure Burn (GR 085316) to Aberlour on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays during the fishing season. The "main user" groups will (between 11 Feb and 30 Sept) canoe this section only on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays, between the hours of 10am and 5pm. there is no restriction on canoeing on Sundays. Although this "gentlemen's agreement" was, originally, to be binding only to the agreement signatories, it is requested that all canoeists adhere to the agreed days, as closely as possible. As part of this agreement Knockando Rapid was designated as a White Water Training Area, available every day between the hours of 10am and 10pm. The area designated is marked by white posts on both banks at the "Tail of Pouches" (upstream line) and at the neck leading into "Station Pool" (downstream line). Please note that this is a designated White Water Training Area and any flat water in or around the area should not be used for novice paddlers. Vehicular access will be from the public road to Knockando (Tamdhu) Station on the left bank and pedestrian access by the steps to the "Station Pool". Particularly in low water conditions, paddlers are requested to egress through the sizeable recessed eddy and up the double set of steps on the left bank just where the fast water ends, approximately 150 metres upstream of the steps leading down to "Station Pool". For those wishing to repeatedly paddle the rapids, portage back upstream will be by the footpath between white posts, on the right bank. Paddlers are strongly urged to adhere to the "Local Agreement" as closely as possible. If it is not possible to avoid the agreed "non-canoeing" days. when requiring to pass through Knockando waters, (includes from approx. 1 km. below Blacksboat Bridge to approx 1km. above Carron Bridge) then please contact the Estate by phoning one of the Estate ghillies 01340 810327 (S. Milne) 810343 (I. Gordon) 810278 (S. Smith) or Dr Catherine Wills ~ 01340 810203.
Ballindalloch Estate Office staff would also welcome a call , with intimation of your intentions on 01807 500206. (Ballindalloch Estate waters stretch from the "March Pool" access point at GR 158369 to the pool downstream of Craigroy Island, approx 1km. below Blacksboat Bridge.) Representatives from these Estates will not say "No" but rather suggest the best and most reasonable time, from a fishing perspective, for canoeing on that particular day. Those planning to egress at Blacksboat Bridge in order to use at the Blacksboat Station camping area are also requested to contact the Ballindalloch Estate Office ~ just "to intimate intentions".
Knockando Estate has also requested we adhere to the following guidelines ~
(a) Canoeists should not play around or complete unnecessary manoeuvres in a pool where a fisherman is actually fishing. When fishing is taking place from a boat, give a wide berth and do not cut in too soon after passing.
(b) Whether on the bank or in a boat, fishers move downstream as they fish, therefore any undue "splashing or thrashing" should be most avoided in the pools just immediately downstream of the person fishing.
(c) Where a fisherman is standing in the water it is best, whenever possible, to pass behind the person, in an effort to avoid disturbing the area of water into which they are casting. In similar vein it is nearly always best to go towards the bank upon which the fisherman is standing, even to go under the rod, to once again minimise disturbance within the casting area.
(d) Through Knockando Estate fishing pools, (from 1km below Blacksboat Bridge to approx. 2km below Knockando Station) paddlers are requested to move over towards the right bank.
(e) One should be aware that pools are frequently "rested", mainly through the afternoon. Resting the pool allows the fish to rise towards the surface. Therefore, although there may be no fishermen visible, paddlers are requested to avoid playing around in the important fishing pools, such as "Tail of Pouches", just above the start of Knockando Rapid and "Station Pool" just below Knockando Rapid.
(f) Ensure fishermen are made aware of your approach. Very often because of the concentration required in fishing, linked with the noise of the water, fishermen do not know paddlers are just above them. Ghillies have requested that we employ whistles in attracting the attention of fishermen with whom we require to negotiate.

CODES AGREED TO BY ANGLERS AND CANOEISTS

(Set up in conjunction with the Spey "Local Agreement")
ANGLERS' CODE

Anglers should
1. familiarise themselves with the days and hours when they can expect canoeists on a given stretch and keep a lookout for them;
2. remember that canoeists are entitled to use of white water and river stretches as set out in this Agreement;
3. remember that some canoeists may be out of control because of lack of experience and that even experienced canoeists can be temporarily out of control because of water conditions;
4. remember that if canoeists arrive when a fish is being played, the angler is entitles to ask the canoeist to wait upstream (if feasible) until the fish is landed; alternatively the angler can advise the canoeist as to when and how to pass him;
5. not to cast or otherwise act so as to create a hazard to canoes or their occupants
6. not act "emulously", that is in a manner that would prevent use of the river by canoeists;
7. fully identify themselves if requested to do so by canoeists.

CANOEISTS' CODE

Canoeists should
1. familiarise themselves with the river stretches, days and hours which this Agreement sets aside for canoeing;
2. enter and leave the river only at agreed access/egress places;
3. not land on banks or islands except in an emergency or to avoid an emergency or at agreed places or for lunch;
4. select stopping places which are suitable and unobtrusive areas, avoiding the vicinity of fishing huts and known fishing locations;
5. remember that if they come across an angler playing a fish he is entitled to ask them to remain upstream (if feasible) until the fish is landed or alternatively to advise them as to when and how to pass him;
6. avoid causing pollution, damage or litter;
7. not canoe "emulously", that is in a manner that would prevent use of the river by anglers;
8. cause as little disturbance to anglers as possible;
9. fully identify themselves if requested to do so by anglers or river keepers.

USEFUL STRATHSPEY ADDRESSES/TELEPHONE NUMBERS
BUNKHOUSE/CAMPING TYPE ACCOMMODATION

Ardenbeg Bunkhouse, Grant Road, Grantown on Spey 01479 872824(Rebecca Bird)
Cromdale Centre, Cromdale. 01224 208446(Aberdeen City Council, Leisure Development)
Ballindalloch Station Bunkhouse (Now B & B) 01540 651272(Mr Clive Freshwater)
Blacksboat Station. (Cold tap only)
Pitchaish Cottage, Knockando, Aberlour AB38 7SF 01340 810264(Camping ~ WC + cold tap ~ river-left: 100m from Carron Bridge.)(Mr Derek Gall)
Aberlour Gardens Caravan/Campsite, Aberlour. AB38 9LD 01340 871586(Mr & Mrs Moss) GR 282433
Boat o' Fiddich Park, Craigellachie.
Burnside Caravan Site, Fochabers 01343 820511(D G Christie) GR 350582

Spey Bay Caravan/Campsite, Tugnet 01343 820424(Mr Dann ~ Spey Bay Hotel) GR 354654

* = Speyside Way Sites ~ ref. Moray County Countryside Ranger Boat o' Fiddich, Craigellachie, Banffshire. AB39 9RQ 01340 881266 ref: www.moray.org/area/speyway/webpages/swhome.htm